Slaughterhouse Flavors: A Baguio Tradition Worth Revisiting
By: Nonnette C. Bennett
Bulalo is a bowl full of boiled tender beef bones and cartillages.
In Baguio City, no culinary journey is complete without a stop at the famed Slaughterhouse eateries. For locals and visitors alike, it has become a ritual—at least once a year—to indulge in the unpretentious, familiar flavors that define comfort food in this part of the country.
Comfort Food, Cordillera Style
The fare here is simple: sautéed, grilled, or boiled dishes seasoned with garlic, onions, and ginger. These staples are more than just meals—they are cultural touchstones, comfort foods that bring warmth despite whispered warnings about arthritis or gout.
Bulalo: The Star of the Table
Bulalo remains the all-time favorite. Its tender meat, gelatinous tendons, and rich marrow are simmered for hours, producing a soup both hearty and flavorful. While the smoky undertones from traditional wood-fired stoves have given way to cleaner gas-fueled cooking, the dish retains its charm. Garnished with green onions, it is a quintessential Filipino comfort food. In the Visayas, ginger is added generously, creating a spicier, more aromatic version.
Pinapaitan has become less bitter but still so good.
Pinapaitan: Bitterness with a Purpose
Another northern classic, pinapaitan, is best enjoyed here. Made from cow or goat innards—tripe, intestines, lungs, kidney, and liver—the dish is patiently boiled, sautéed, and simmered before bile is added for its signature bitter flavor. At Slaughterhouse, the bitterness is tempered, offering a lighter taste than the stronger versions found in Ilocos. Locals swear it is the perfect antidote to a hangover.
Grilled Pork and Blood Sauce
Inihaw na Baboy paired with blood sauce is another staple. Though modern grilling methods have replaced the smoky, flame-charred flavors of charcoal, the clean, crispy cuts remain delicious. The blood sauce, spiked with chili and calamansi, provides the perfect balance of heat and tang.
Chicharon bulaklak has been made crispier with a coat of flour.
Chicharon Bulaklak: Crispy Indulgence
A crowd favorite, chicharon bulaklak has evolved with a light flour coating to enhance crispiness. Dipped in spiced vinegar with onions and chili, it is the perfect companion to a cold bottle of beer—especially on a summer afternoon.
Fried Liver sauteed in garlic and onions is an occasional craving.
Liver: A Salty-Bitter Charm
No Slaughterhouse meal feels complete without fried liver. Cooked with garlic, soy sauce, and caramelized onions, its chewy texture and salty-bitter flavor make it a dish worth craving. For some, it is more than indulgence—it is the body’s way of asking for minerals it needs.
A Tradition of Indulgence
Though the fare may be considered indulgent, locals believe it is harmless when enjoyed once or twice a year. More than food, these dishes are part of Baguio’s culinary heritage—a reminder that vitamins and minerals can be savored in meals rather than swallowed in pills.
At Slaughterhouse, the philosophy is simple: enjoy what you eat, but don’t overdo it. And for many, that annual pilgrimage to these eateries is not just about food—it is about tradition, comfort, and the joy of living.
